Scallops three ways (from left): grilled and served on a roasted red pepper puree, poached on lemon crème fraiche and pan-seared with capers, pasta and squid ink.

By Jolene Ketzenberger

What's black and white and red all over? It might be an old joke, but at L'Explorateur, local chef Neal Brown's 3-month-old Broad Ripple restaurant, it has a new answer.

But you have to order the dish or ask a server because you won't find an explanation on the menu -- just the question. And the price.

(Pssssst. The answer is scallops.)

But not just any scallops. This $28 dish offers three plump scallops on a slim, rectangular plate. One grilled and presented on a red pepper puree -- the red, of course. Another poached and served in a puddle of lemon crème fraiche -- the white. And the third pan-seared and served atop a bed of tagliatelle pasta with capers and squid ink -- the black.

"It's the No. 1 seller on this menu," he said, adding that "it helps that they're gorgeous scallops."

He says "this menu" because the offerings at L'Explorateur change every two weeks. And not incrementally, Brown pointed out; he'll write a whole new menu. But he won't be reaching into a recipe box of tried-and-true favorites.

"None of this is ever tested," he said.

Brown is literally making things up as he goes, which resulted in a recent combination of tempuraed zucchini blossoms stuffed with raw yellowtail tuna accompanied by sea urchin, preserved lemon, jalapeño jelly and wasabi topiko (flying-fish roe) -- all atop a swath of savory chocolate. He offered the dish as an example of an amuse-bouche, the little complimentary hors d'oeuvres or "mouth pleasers" chefs often offer to diners.

"I can do whatever I want," Brown says of his off-the-wall offerings. "You can't complain about it because it's free."

Love it or hate it, Brown's food will definitely surprise. "It's kind of like opening a new restaurant every two weeks," he said. "You come into an entirely new food experience."

Menu descriptions aren't necessarily clear. You have to ask, take your chances or go for one of the more straightforward dishes, like Indiana duck with mint and cilantro yogurt or oregano-lemon lamb chops with Indiana tomato and squash blossom puree. Or let yourself be surprised.

Brown's partner and general manager, Lindy Arnold, said some diners revel in the unknown.

"They'll say, 'Have Neal send out two or three things off the raw bar and four entrees -- we're going to share,' " she said.

It is the edgy combination of humor, out-of-the-ordinary ingredients and creative presentation -- coupled with top-notch service -- that Brown believes entices such customers and distinguishes his restaurant from others with a similar focus on seasonal and regional ingredients.

Tony Hanslits, the new director of The Chef's Academy at Indiana Business College, hired Brown in 2000 as his sous-chef when opening Tavola di ToSa -- a former occupant of the L'Explorateur location (Brown also served as chef at H2O Sushi and Brugge Brasserie).

"Neal is doing some really crazy things," said Hanslits. "He's out there. He's definitely out there."

But that's not necessarily a bad thing. Brown might remind you of another off-the-wall chef -- the Food Network's Alton Brown -- and the L'Explorateur owner also displays the "Good Eats" host's enthusiasm for science.

"He's become very scientific," Brown said of the Food Network icon. "It's about time chefs look smart."

Brown shows his own smarts when he talks about his fascination with the molecular gastronomy movement, a catch-all term for an interest in using scientific equipment and techniques in the kitchen.

He's certain that diners will come along with him into this brave new world.

"We have a very sophisticated clientele," he said. "They know what's going on in the world of food."